With punctured wheels at the Himalayas...

                         After fixing the bike issues we had the previous day, we finally resumed the ride on Day 5, but a bit late in the morning than our normal starting time. The first spot for the day was the Kargil War Memorial, near Dras. After spending some quality time there, we continued our ride with our target being set as Lamayuru, for the day. The road snaked through the hills was smooth enough to cruise along without any problems. By evening we started riding uphill on the Namika La - one of the high passes in the Leh - Srinagar highway, also known as pillar of the sky passes. Unlike Zoji La, the road here was on good condition and we never expected any damage to happen to our bikes in this route. But, sometimes unlikely things do happen, especially in the mountains. This time it was my bike's turn to give us some trouble...

                         The clock had gone past 5 in the evening and we were nearing the top of Namika La, located at an elevation of 3700 meters from sea level. Suddenly after a sharp curve I felt like the bike is getting out of control. I slowed down and stopped immediately to check the vehicle. I was really shocked to see the flat rear tire of the bike. My friend who was riding in front of me didn't saw the incident at all and kept on riding. Since there was no connectivity for my phone I couldn't contact him as well. But after a while he noticed that I'm not behind him and rode all the way back and found me after a few minutes.

     

                    Luckily, a local guy who passed by in his car stopped at us and informed us that there is a puncture repair shop 8kms ahead. He also offered to take my saddlebag in his car till the shop, so that the load on the bike can be reduced. We agreed and my friend followed him, meanwhile, I started driving the bike with the punctured rear wheel.

                         I was driving very slowly and carefully with the hazard lights on. Few riders who passed by stopped at me to check whether I'm okay with riding it and offered help if I needed any. One guy even rode along with me very slowly till we reach the top of the pass. After 2kms it was riding downhill, so I told him that I can manage and he left after wishing me luck. Since I was riding very slowly, it gave me an opportunity to have a closer look on the evening life of people in the mountains. I saw people coming down the hills with their cattle, donkeys, horses etc., back to their homes. Some large herds of sheep were shepherded by kids as young as 10 years of age, if not less. When we see such kids normally on the highways, they used to wave at us.  This time since I was riding very slowly, some even came close to me, touching my bike and jacket and some just for shaking hands with me. That was a really touching gesture and experience. The innocence of these kids is something that can really melt your heart. I still regret for not having some chocolates with me for these kids. Finally, after half an hour I reached Khangral, where the puncture shop was. But there was more bad news awaiting me.

                         The old man in the workshop inspected the wheel and found a more-than-one-inch long steel shrapnel stuck in it. It was not sharp at all like a nail, and it still remains as a mystery how it got in there. Whatever, it had torn the tube completely. It was expected and our plan was to replace it from the workshop. But the bad news was, there was no tube available in the shop and we too didn't have one - our fault. To buy one I need to go to Wakha, to reach where I have to go back 30kms. The time was 6.30pm already and we didn't have much time to waste.

                         Obviously, the only option left was to hitch  truck to Wakha and luckily I got one soon enough. The guy in the truck asked me to sit at the loading box at the back. Sun has gone and it started getting colder. After a few kilometers I think the guy felt sympathy for me and offered me seat in the driver's cabin itself. That was a huge relief. After almost an hour and half we reached Wakha and the truck dropped me at the tyre shop.

                         On reaching the tyre shop I was a bit surprised, because I couldn't find a single grown up person there. There were 4 kids, the eldest of them not more than 13 years of age the youngest, a girl not more than 5 years. It was already past 8pm and no other shops nearby. I was not very sure whether these little guys can get me the tyre issues fixed. But these guys were more than capable of doing it. Fixing the issues was a just a piece of cake for them. They knew the tube details of our bikes and I didn't have to give them the specifications while buying the spares. Also, they were very friendly and made me so comfortable and even assured me saying, ' don't worry, we'll arrange lift for you in any vehicle going through Khangral', and they exactly did that. While one of them was fixing the tyre, the other ones were checking out my jacket. The eldest of the lot explained about the elbow, arms and back protection pads in the jacket to the younger kids. One of them started punching me on the jacket with his tiny hands, just to check whether it's strong enough; though very careful of not hurting me. Finally, within half an hour the problems were solved and I left the place in a bus that offered me to drop at Khangral. However, I didn't forget to take a selfie with those cool young kids before leaving the place.

                         The Punjabis in the bus were very friendly and gave me water and biscuits which was very rejuvenating, since we haven't had lunch that day. When I told them that we are from Kerala, they were so curious to know about the flood situations and appreciated the way we faced those disasters with courage. That was a proud moment for me being a Keralite. They were chatting with me throughout the journey which kept me invigorated.

                         After an hour's journey we reached Khangral. After wishing me luck they drove all the way to Leh. The old man in the workshop was kind enough to fix the wheel for me even when it was well over 9 in the night. Finally, the bike was done and we left the place. We found a small home stay 5kms ahead, and the lady there was so congenial and benign that she even cooked Maggi at 10.30 in the night for the three ravenous riders. With a relieved mind and rejuvenated body, we happily retired to bed for the day.

The home stay near Khangral

                         The situation would not have become this complex, if we'd taken spare tubes with us. Also, if we were riding bike with tubeless tyres, then too it'd have been easier to fix them. But this was pure  risk taking, adventure. After all, that's what ride to the Himalayas is all about, isn't it..?